Some recent changes have given me the opportunity to shift my focus from working full time to selling some property, finishing remodeling home projects, travelling, engaging more in the art community here and around the world and being able to concentrate on art work. Here are some examples from a current printmaking class taught by Kelda Martensen at North Seattle Community College.
Two of the pieces shown are printed from carved linoleum plates in a module I have been using for years that measure 6 x 8 inches. When stacked in a 3 x 3 array they can fill an 18 x 24 inch image that neatly fits on a standard 22 x 30 inch full sheet of print making paper or can be used individually as these examples are intended. I generally use Rives BFK for the paper. Inks used are Charbonnel, using either their oil or their newer water clean-up line which is a little duller in sheen. Graphic chemical, Daniel Smith and Gamblin are other great brands also used.
What is unique about these two prints from linoleum cut plates? They are reduction linocuts. Reduction prints take some planning and the artist needs to think backwards for the process to work well. Many artists plan out a cut from an image or a series of tracing paper overlays to predict the outcome of the final print so there will be few surprises when the final reduction cut, inking and printing is complete. Generally, you start with your largest color field, with the lightest color first. This first cut defines any white of the paper you want to preserve. A strong registration system needs to be used and set after the orientation is decided.
The “Racer” cut started out with a dark gray and I felt it needed to be lightened so for the second printing a slight additional reduction was carved and a white ink was applied over much but not all of the gray. A third reduction carving was applied and ink was rolled with green on the bottom of the plate and another gray on top. The fourth and last reduction carving was done for an almost black gray with added ultramarine blue. What was exciting to see was the over cuts on the background on top and bottom that enlarged the color “holes” below at every additional printing and gave the impression of blurring and speed.
The “Backyard’ print was going to have only three colors, but ended up with four. That takes a lot of concentration in the cutting and alignment when printing over the last three runs of color. Generally speaking, the more color runs or separate printings on a proof you do, you should triple the proofs to be sure you get the amount of acceptable prints at the end. I did 12 prints and was satisfied with about 4 or 5 of them.
Although I rarely print “exact” multiples when printmaking, I was happy with these editions.
The third print “Valley Gliders” was for the final project. I haven’t printed from leather plates in years, but I have been doing leather objects and sculptures, so this final project gave me an opportunity for inking at least one leather plate and printing it. My intent initially was to sew some leather pieces together because the thread holds ink in an interesting fashion and embosses well. For this print I wanted to concentrate on the lines and tooling in black and “paint” ink like a monotype in the plate or print the black lines and overlay color with watercolor or gouache on the proof after the ink is dry. This print was sized for a half sheet or 15 x 22 inches paper and has a 10 x 16 inch plate size giving a 2.5 inch boundary at the sides and top and a 3.5 inch at the bottom to accommodate writing for the title, print number and signature. The print shown was the last one of five prints - two fully inked runs and a ghosts each off those plates, or printing a second (and in the last case a second ghost) proof without re-inking the plate. That second ghost off of the second printing received color pencil marks.
I will try to put another blog post soon just on my process for preparing leather plates which will include selecting leather, carving, tooling sealing, inking and printing.